Ramen's Rising: A Culinary Journey Sweeping Japan
Tokyo, Japan - A culinary revolution is sweeping the nation, driven by the ever-increasing number of foreign visitors. The beloved Japanese dish, ramen, is no longer just a local favorite but has become an international sensation, dethroning sushi as the new symbol of Japanese cuisine. The market for ramen restaurants is booming, reaching a record high of approximately 790 billion yen (S$6.6 billion) in the last fiscal year, a 60% increase from a decade ago.
This surge in popularity is fueled by the growing number of tourists, with 36.9 million foreign visitors in 2024 and a projected new record in 2025. American tourists, for instance, eagerly explore Tokyo's ramen scene, joining organized tours to sample various styles. One such tour, Tokyo Ramen Tours, takes participants to three restaurants in Shibuya, offering a comparison of six small bowls of ramen. The experience is so popular that it attracts thousands of requests annually, despite its nearly 20,000 yen per person cost.
The Japan Tourism Agency's survey revealed that 18.9% of respondents found ramen the most satisfying dining experience, surpassing sushi by 4.4 percentage points. This shift in preference is notable, as ramen's unique flavors and authenticity have become a status symbol for tourists. Mr. Daisuke Iijima, deputy section chief at Teikoku Databank, highlights the market's growth, noting the influx of new restaurant chains capitalizing on ramen's popularity.
Ramen's history in Japan is rich and diverse. Rairaiken, established in Tokyo's Asakusa district in 1910, is considered the first ramen shop. The Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 played a pivotal role in ramen's spread, as shop owners from Tokyo and Yokohama evacuated to other prefectures, introducing ramen to new regions. The milky white tonkotsu broth, created in Kurume, Fukuoka prefecture, in 1947, became a Kyushu favorite, while miso ramen, invented in Sapporo in 1954, quickly spread across Japan.
Yoshimuraya, founded in Yokohama in 1974, introduced the iekei style, known for its rich pork bone and soya sauce broths. The brand's franchise and spin-off restaurants have contributed to its nationwide popularity. The 2000s saw the creation of hit products like toripaitan creamy chicken broth and tanreikei light and clear broth, further diversifying the ramen landscape.
Looking ahead, ramen enthusiasts like Mr. Kazuaki Tanaka predict a shift towards bowls showcasing the chef's distinct personality, moving beyond classic flavors. The future of ramen in Japan is bright, with its popularity showing no signs of waning, and new fans joining the culinary journey with every boom.
